Things were out of balance. Since February I've done about 90 red wines and maybe 20 whites.

This offering of MAISON VERGET 2000 Vintage White Burgundy goes a long way toward righting that imbalance. Fifteen gorgeous Chardonnays. All Burgundian . . . Chablis, Macon, Meursault, Puligny Montrachet, Chassagne Montrachet, and Batard Montrachet. Each one distinctive. Every one exceptional in its class.

Arriving today.

The last 38 cases of 1998 RENWOOD AMADOR COUNTY ZINFANDELS.

Amador County is east of San Francisco and just south of Tahoe in a very warm growing microclimate famous for producing ripe, concentrated Zinfandel. RENWOOD specializes in Zinfandel.

Interesting stories.

Forget everything I've told you about Right Bank Bordeaux wines.

Remember Saint Emilion and Pomerol? The two most famous right bank Bordeaux appellations . . . where Merlot is king.

Cotes de Bourg is another Right Bank appellation. It's right across the Gironde River from Medoc and much closer to the famous Medoc communes of Margaux, St. Julien, Pauillac, and St. Estephe than it is to Saint Emilion and Pomerol.

Maybe that's why ROC DES CAMBES, in a district that makes most of their red wine from Merlot, uses more Cabernet Sauvignon than anything else.

You're obsessing about the wine to serve with Easter supper.

It's not that hard. The traditional meal of lamb, or perhaps a fresh ham, suggests wines with a bit of an edge to balance the fattiness in the meat you're about to enjoy.

The evidence indicates there is no ''perfect'' wine and there are many ''perfect'' wines . . .

Whether red, white, or rose. Expensive or not. These wines have it.

In Tuscany, going all the way back to 1980, there hasn't been a vintage to compare to 1997.

Most of the good '97 Chiantis have disappeared from the shelves. When you can find them, they're certainly not under $10.00. So I was more than surprised to come across this little gem.